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StyleSeptember 24, 2003 

Take a closer look at the latest in jewelry styles

In 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary of Burgundy by offering her a diamond ring, he was unaware that he had begun a new tradition. Today at least 82 percent of all brides in the United States receive a diamond engagement ring. Of those, more than half choose a classic, round, brilliant-cut diamond, but the array of options is more than exciting. With fancy shapes like oval, pear, heart and marquise, today's brides are realizing that there is a shape that flatters every hand.

Still a bride's best friend

A recent survey found that 82 percent of women prefer larger diamonds. "Women today really want to make a statement with their diamonds, whether they are diamond stud earrings, a glittering pendant or the all-important engagement ring. In other words, in this case, bigger is better," says Elizabeth Florence, executive director of the Jewelry Information Center, a nonprofit trade association headquartered in New York City. "Branded diamonds such as the Ashoka, Leo, Rand, Gabrielle, Lovefire and the Royal Asscher Cut are also gaining in popularity. American consumers are responding to the comfort level and element of trust that a brand name can add to the purchase of a diamond."

Trends in wedding gowns often influence what jewelry brides choose. The most up-to-the-minute designs are rich with romantic detail: embellished with dripping crystals and covered with lacy appliqus and detailed embroidery. The matching jewelry offers details just as intricate: hand-engraved designs on gold and platinum, botanical motifs such as blossoms, vines and leaves with diamond or pearl detail, and textural finishes on the metals such as satin, brushed or granulation.

Strapless and halter-style wedding gowns continue in popularity, as do upswept hairstyles. This sleek look leaves the ears, neck and dcolletage begging to be enhanced with glittering chandelier and pagoda earrings and multi-strand cultured pearl chokers. Vintage-influenced necklaces in diamonds and platinum with a nod to the Victorian, Edwardian or Art Deco periods can be a bride's "something old."

As far as her "something blue," today's bride can choose from a variety of gemstones in the hues of sky and sea. If money is no object, how about a blue diamond - one of the rarest and most precious varieties of colored diamonds? A bride with eyes on her wallet can choose from aquamarine, lapis lazuli, chalcedony, Peruvian opal, sapphire, peacock blue Tahitian cultured pearls, iolite, tanzanite (a bluish violet) or blue topaz.

If a bride is "thinking pink," she's not alone. Some of today's trend-setting celebrities are sporting this rosy hue, which is feminine and flattering. Jennifer Lopez is sporting her $1.1 million pink diamond ring - a gift that fianc Ben Affleck found for her at Harry Winston. Both Julia Roberts and Gwen Stefani wore wedding gowns in a blushing shade of pink. How to show one's true colors without breaking the bank? Look for necklaces, earrings, and bracelets in pink tourmaline, pink freshwater cultured pearls, apple jade (rhodocrosite), rose quartz or cherry quartz.

For more information on bridal jewelry trends, celebrity jewelry news, savvy jewelry shopping tips, and care of jewelry, visit www.jewelryinfo.org.